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Beemed across the desert: Driving in Nevada

Braving the blazing sun, glaciers and gun-toting locals, Rishad Saam Mehta finds some of the best roads the state of Nevada has to offer in a BMW 328i.
2 min read5 Nov '16
Autocar India News Desk

Gunfights and lost fortunes were common in Virginia City, whose gold built San Francisco.

Being a pro-gun state, raffles like these are common.

Lamoille Lake is just 50km from Elko. The drive to reach it is simply out of this world.

High temperatures played havoc with tyre pressures.

Highway signs are often used for target practice.

Just 26km from Las Vegas, Red Rock is an excellent area to escape the canned air of the city’s casinos.

This prehistoric site lies on US-50 between Austin and Eureka in Nevada.

Remember the car that was swung onto the ship during the opening scenes of Titanic? The Rambler is that car.

Mouth-watering metal at the National Automobile Museum in Reno.

The Thomas Flyer.

During the gold rush days of the 19th century, a man’s mule was his best friend.

Love burgers? You’ll love Nevada’s multiple offerings.

Turning onto the NF600, the road through Lamoille Canyon, is like driving in the barren and desolate desert landscape of Nevada and magically finding yourself in the lush and verdant Himalaya. The change in topography and scenery is like night and day.

The icing on the cake is that NF (denoting National Forest) 600, running from the town of Lamoille to the car park at the trailhead for the hike up to Lamoille Lake, is a lovely 19km-long ribbon of tar lazily draped around undulating canyon cliff sides. There are short straights stitched together by stretched out ‘S’ bends. It was an opportunity too hard to resist, because over the past couple of days I had stuck to speed limits like the most obedient child in the classroom, often slotting this very capable BMW 328i into cruise control for 400km at a stretch – the distance from Delhi to Ajmer.

It was 4.55am and I was on the NF600, feeling like a kid locked inside a candy store. Dawn was breaking as I slipped the Beemer into ‘Sports’ mode, effectively transforming it from librarian to Lara Croft. Needless to say, I drove through the canyon on the more exciting side of the speed limit. The combination of steering feel, the suspension dynamics – with traction control turned off – and the 2.0-litre, 240hp engine had me grinning like a loon. I was at the wheel of the ‘ultimate driving machine’ on a mouth-watering road. And I was all by myself.

Beemed across the desert: Driving in Nevada

Not exactly, as it turned out, because as I was pulling into the parking lot, happily sniffing the smell of burning rubber, one of the deputy sheriffs of Elko County pulled up behind me. “Bollocks! Here comes the ticket,” I thought. But he seemed more interested in what I was doing here so early in the morning. I explained that I wanted to get to the lake to photograph it before the wind started up and the sun became too harsh. Deputy Sean Murphy turned out to be quite the outdoors photographer, and soon he was pointing out routes that I should take up to the lake and showing me photographs he had taken and videos he had cut during his summer treks and winter snowmobiling safaris. After wishing me good luck he started off, stopped a few feet ahead, backed up and said, “Go easy on the drive back! Okay?”

“Yes sir,” I replied sheepishly and he drove off. But the tips that he’d given me made that four-hour hike up to the Dollar Lakes and the Lamoille Lake one of the most memorable highlights of my week-long road trip in Nevada.

What Happens In Vegas

I had landed in glitzy Las Vegas a few days before, after a hectic conference in New Orleans. This city with everything standing in the middle of nothing was the perfect way to wind down. Especially since I had tickets to The Beatles LOVE by Cirque Du Soleil being performed at The Mirage. Having grown up listening to The Beatles, this audio-visual treat of imaginative props, strobe lights and superbly synchronised acrobatics was a delight, particularly since it was played in loud high fidelity.

If you ever see this show, try to spot Shamanth, a Telugu boy from Hyderabad who learnt street-style dancing by watching YouTube videos and then scored a job in the Cirque Du Soleil troupe (hint: ‘Here Comes the Sun’).

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Beemed across the desert: Driving in Nevada - Introduction | Autocar India