Pashan Garh, Panna

The wild heart of India is a ruggedly beautiful place. Every time we drive down here, it seems like we’re visiting a place that gives a little indication of how life must have been in our country centuries ago. This isn’t necessarily saying that the region is backwards and underdeveloped. But rather jungles that have been conserved and ancient temples and caves that have been well looked after give one a feel of looking at ancient India through a translucent glass. With a little imagination, you can very well picture what life must have been like here.

This is what makes the drive there so enjoyable, even if you have done it before. Indeed when we drove these roads three-and-a-half years ago, it was bumps and jolts all the way. This time I was pleasantly surprised. The drive was smooth, stress-free and I daresay that it was one of the most therapeutic drives I have had in India in the recent past. Pashan Garh in Panna, near the world famous temples of Khajuraho, is a destination by itself. In fact, though it is a wildlife lodge where you can set up base to see the Panna wildlife sanctuary, you could very well spend days relaxing in its wild and luxurious environs. Combined with the scenic and peaceful drive, it makes for a much ‘unplugged’ break. Remember to: Carry a pair of binoculars as the entire area around Panna is a birder’s paradise. Don’t forget to: Pack woollies as the nights can get quite chilly, even in summer.

Finally: Do leave early because the land is at its scenic best in the early morning sun. Getting there: Trip set point is the roundabout with a statue of Rani Laxmibai of Jhansi in Agra. 0.0 Roundabout with statue of Rani Laxmibai of Jhansi. Turn left for Gwalior. 2.9 UTI Bank ATM. All ATM cards work here, including credit cards.

• 22.3 Toll booth. Rs 20.
• 53.2 Dholpur. This town is in the heart of the Chambal Valley, which is infested with dacoits — avoid being here after dark.
• 57.4 Bridge over the river Chambal.
• 78.5 Roundabout. Continue straight towards Morena.
• 82.2 Toll booth. Rs 5.
• 107.4 T-junction. Turn left.
• 115.8 Gwalior. Roundabout. Turn left for Jhansi.
• 118.8 T-junction. Turn left for Jhansi.
• 123.5 Left T-junction. Turn left for Jhansi. Landmark is Tansen Hotel on the right.
• 124.6 Roundabout. Turn left for Jhansi.
• 189.2 Fork. Bear right.
• 220.3 Roundabout. Jhansi city. Continue straight for Orchha.
• 221.5 Roundabout with five exits. Take the second one.
• 222.5 ICICI and SBI Bank ATMs.
• 224.3 T-junction. Turn right for Khajuraho and Panna.
• 227.9 HPCL fuel station. AF including premium fuels.
• 230.9 Right T-junction. Continue straight for Khajuraho and Panna. Right goes to Orchha.
• 232.3 BPCL fuel station. Just fuel and lubricants.
• 285.3 Mauranipur. T-junction. Turn left for Khajuraho.
• 285.6 Level crossing.
• 298.6 Fork. Bear right for Khajuraho on NH76. Straight goes to Allahabad (NH 75).
• 304.1 Toll booth. Rs 15.
• 304.2 Fork. Bear right for Khajuraho. Note: The first 2km might scare you because they are badly potholed, but fret not as the road isn’t all that bad afterwards.
• 327.7 Nowgong town.
• 350.0 Chattrapur town.
• 385.2 Bamitha. Left T-junction. Continue straight for Panna. Left goes to Khajuraho.
• 400.8 Mandla entrance gate into the Panna Tiger Reserve and National Park
• 407.1 Road on left goes to Pandav Falls and caves.
• 414.7 Road on right goes to Hindoda Gate (15km) into the Panna Tiger Reserve and National Park.
• 419.7 HPCL fuel station on the left and fork on road. Bear right towards Panna.
• 420.2 Forest barrier (no toll charge).
• 420.4 Fork. Bear right towards Katni (120km).
• 423.6 Gate to Pashan Garh on the left.